Coconut Beef Curry

Make the masala paste: Heat a medium fry pan on high heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until it is scalding hot. Add the peppercorns, coriander, cumin, fennel, poppyseeds, cardamom, cloves, star anise and chile. Reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring frequently and reducing the heat more if the spices begin to smoke, until the seeds start to sputter and pop, about 5 minutes. Add curry leaves and coconut; continue to cook, stirring, for about 15 seconds, until the spices release an earthy, warm and smoky fragrance and the coconut darkens in color.

Transfer the spice mixture to a blender. Add 1/4 cup water and pulse for 2 to 3 minutes, until a smooth paste forms. To help the spice mixture blend more easily, scrape down the sides a couple times between pulses, and add up to ¼ cup more water if needed. Set aside.

Make the curry: Heat oil in a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot on medium-high heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until the oil starts to shimmer. Add mustard seeds and let them sputter briefly. (A pan lid is helpful to shield you from any spatter.) Add ginger and garlic and stir, then immediately add onion and a pinch of salt and stir again. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to soften and turn golden, about 15 minutes.

Stir in coriander, cumin, red chile powder, turmeric and green chile, and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes more, lowering the heat if the mixture begins to smoke. Stir in a splash of water if the mixture starts to stick.

Reduce the heat to medium. Stir in tomatoes and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have broken down and the oil starts to separate from the jammy mixture, 10 to 15 minutes, adding a splash of water any time the mixture starts sticking to the pot. Stir in the masala paste, then add beef and stir so it’s thoroughly coated with the masala. Stir in 1 cup water and cook at a low simmer for 40 to 50 minutes, until the liquid has reduced by half. (Feel free to add up to ¾ cup more water as it cooks, depending on how saucy you like your curry.)

Add half of the coconut milk, bring to a simmer and cook for another 20 minutes. Add the potatoes, if using, bring to a simmer and continue to cook for another 20 minutes, until the beef and potatoes are tender. Stir in the remaining coconut milk and warm through, then taste and add more salt if needed. Serve with paratha, rice or roti.